Plant Replacement Policy
Perennials that die within 3 months of purchase date can be replaced one time only at a 50% discount off the retail price.
Trees and Shrubs that die within one year of purchase date can be replaced one time only at a 50% discount off the retail price.
Pending availability, those Perennials, Shrubs or Trees that are replaced will be of the same variety and size. If the same plant is not available, a plant of equivalent type, size and price may be substituted at the discretion of Autumn Hill management. NO CASH REFUNDS.
Please Note: If Autumn Hill Nursery installed the plants and the invoice for the installation is paid Net 10 days upon completion of the job, then the above Replacement Policy will apply with no additional labor charges for the re-installation of the new plants. Shrubs or tree transplanted are not guaranteed. Sod and grass seed is not guaranteed.
Plants not guaranteed:
Sale Item Plants (Perennials, Shrubs or Trees)
Living Christmas Trees
Annual Flowers and Vegetables
Plants sold wholesale to landscapers
We cannot accept returns on plants. Therefore, please make your selections carefully.
Maintaining Your New Landscaping
Tips on watering, fertilizing, pruning, etc...
Thank you for choosing Autumn Hill Nursery to install your landscape project. We have worked hard to do
the best job we can for you, and hope that you are pleased with the outcome. We offer the following
guidelines to help ensure that your new landscape survives and flourishes.
Remember, your new plants are going to need water.
Insufficient moisture is the primary reason plants fail in a new landscape.
Watering your new trees, plants, sod, or grass seed
There are no set rules for watering, but we have provided the following guidelines to get you started. If in doubt as to water or not, bury your finger about 2 inches into the ground. If the soil is moist, do not
water; if it is dry, water. Keep in mind, cold soil may feel moist, so be careful. Questions on watering? call us at 770-442-3901 (Hickory Flat) or 770-345-5252 (Canton)
Trees
Trees will have root systems that are at least 15 inches in the ground. Overhead irrigation may not be
sufficient. We recommend hand watering or using drip irrigation.
Hand water new trees by placing the hose outlet next to the trunk, and let water trickle for about twenty
minutes. You want to avoid runoff, and allow the water to soak into the soil. Do this 3 times per week for
new trees. After three weeks, taper off to twice a week. This applies to plants installed from March through
November. Watering during the winter months will be less frequent.
Drip irrigation should run for approx. 2 hours, 3 times a week for first three weeks, then taper off to twice
a week.
Shrubs, perennials and groundcovers
Using overhead irrigation run irrigation daily for 20-30 minutes for first 10 days. Then taper off to an odd/
even schedule.
Drip irrigation should run for 45 minutes daily for first 10 days, then taper off to an odd/even schedule.
Soaker hoses should run for 2-3 hours three times per week, then taper off to an odd/even schedule.
Helpful Hint: Insert a wooden dowel reaching the root depth of your plants. Once watering is completed,
pull the dowel from the soil and check. If the dowel has water saturation at the base it confirms water is
reaching the root area. If not, watering time should be increased.
Sod
New sod needs to be watered daily while its roots get established. Overhead irrigation should run for 10-15
minutes daily for first 10-14 days. Then taper off to three times per week for next couple of weeks, then reduce
watering to twice a week. If you are using an oscillating sprinkler, let it run for about thirty minutes
following the same frequency described above. You want to keep the ground moist, but not soggy.
Do not mow for 4 weeks.
Grass Seed
New seed needs to be watered 2-3 times daily while it germinates and begins to root. Over head irrigation
should just run for about 5-10 minutes for the first week while the seed germinates. After the grass begins to
grow, water for about 20-30 minutes once a day. After the grass has been up and green for three weeks, taper
off to an odd/even schedule. Do not mow for 5 weeks.
Fertilizing Trees, plants, roses, Grass, etc.
Trees, shrubs and perennials should be fertilized in mid-March and again in July
We recommend using a slow-release all-purpose organic fertilizer such as Going Green Organics.
This product won’t burn plants, and provides a steady feed of nutrients for up to 12 weeks. Always follow the instructions on product labels.
Roses need to be fertilized in mid-March and again in August. We recommend, Mills Magic Rose Mix.
You can supplement this with a monthly dose of liquid Easy Feed from April through September.
Fescue grass should be fertilized in March, September, and November.
Bermuda and zoysia should be fertilized in April (when grass is at least 50% green) and again early
September.
For Fescue, bermuda and zoysia, we recommend using a slow-release all-purpose organic fertilizer such as
Going Green Organics. This product provides a steady feed of nutrients for up to 12 weeks without harming
the environment. You may also consider a weed and feed product formulated for your particular grass.
Preventive Maintenance
Black Spot and other fungus on roses can be easily controlled by applying Bayer 3-N-1 Rose Care biweekly
April through September Always follow the instructions on product labels. To help control damage from Japanese Beetles on thin-leaved plants such as crape myrtle, cherry & plum
trees, apply Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Care from May through July. Bayer Advanced Rose Care will
help control Japanese Beetles on Roses. Always follow the instructions on product labels.
Keep leaves off fresh grass in the fall as lack of sunlight can kill the grass
Keep leaves off evergreen groundcovers such as vinca, pachysandra, junipers, etc.
Pruning Shrubs
Most evergreen & non-flowering shrubs can be pruned at any time of the year except Oct. & Nov.
The following shrubs should be pruned within 2-3 weeks after they finish blooming since they
immediately start to form the following year’s flower buds:
Azalea, camellia, deutzia, forsythia, fothergilla, hydrangea, lilac, mock orange,
mountain laurel, pieris, rhododendron, viburnum, weigelia
Pruning Roses
Knockout roses can be cut back to 24” tall in late February to mid-March. They can be lightly sheared
throughout the spring and summer to control their shape and size.
Climbing roses should be cut back after first flush of blooms if necessary to control their shape.
Hybrid tea, Grandiflora, and English roses should be cut back to 18-24” tall in late February to mid-March.
Ornamental grasses should be left alone through winter, then cut back to 6” tall in March.
Liriope can be cut back to 1-2” tall during winter or early spring to remove flattened foliage.
Butterfly bush should be cut back to 18” tall in March, then lightly sheared during summer if needed.
Pruning questions? Call us at 770-442-3901 (Hickory Flat) or 770-345-5252 (Canton)
Maintaining Perennials
Most perennials are herbaceous, meaning they die back to the ground each winter. Once they turn
brown from frost, the foliage can be cut back to the ground.
Many perennial need to be divided about every 5 years to rejuvenate them. A sign that a clump of
perennials may need to be divided is the center of the plant dies out, or bloom count is seriously reduced
from previous years. Spring, when the perennials are just breaking ground, is probably the easiest time to dig
and divide clumps. Discard the center of the plant, and replant the outer portion. We can give you more
specifics on this easy procedure, please stop by and visit us.
Annual Bed (seasonal color beds)
Flowering annuals consume large quantities of nutrients which need to be periodically replaced. Before
planting either in the spring or fall, add Mr. Natural’s Hen Manure to your bed and turn in with a shovel.
Add one bag per 8 sq ft (2’x4’ bed) Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer such as Going Green Organics or
Osmocote.
Click here for a printable version of these Plant Care Instructions
